As it is well known, followers of the Christian religion, specifically the Roman Catholic Church which has a large number of believers throughout Latin America, avoid consuming red meat during Holy Week festivities, since this food represents, during these dates, the body of Christ on the cross.
Holy Week is a time for reflection in which abstinence should prevail. In the regions of Peru, it is celebrated with great culinary devotion, and according to tradition, the consumption of dishes made with fish and seafood takes prominence.
For example, it is quite well known worldwide that in Cusco there is a tradition of consuming 12 dishes on Good Friday, in Ayacucho they celebrate Holy Week with chorizo, but do you know what is prepared during Holy Week in Arequipa or Piura? What is served beyond the Andean heights, in the Amazonian territory?
Next, we will take you on a journey through six Peruvian regions and their respective culinary traditions during these dates:
Piura: Malarrabia and Sudado
Piura is the fifth most populated city in Peru and a culinary leader in northern Peru; it is a diverse territory ranging from the high Andean puna (land of shamans) to the desert coast and its Sea of Grau. Hence, its gastronomic customs are so varied. The most outstanding dish in Piuran cuisine during these dates is Malarrabia.
Malarrabia is especially prepared in Catacaos, although it has spread throughout Piura. It combines mashed cooked plantains seasoned with chili, garlic, and onion, with diced cheese (traditionally goat cheese, although any fresh cheese can be used according to taste). All of this is served with fish in brine, or a sudado-style fish, and a side of beans, chickpeas, or lentils.
The Northern Moche: Causa and Theological Soup
The Moche cuisine is an excellent example of northern Peru, including the territories of Lambayeque and La Libertad. In this land of Naylamp, Holy Week is typically celebrated with two preparations: fish escabeche paired with causa, and Theological Soup, more typical of Trujillo.
The lambayeque causa is usually simpler than the limeña causa; it consists mainly of cooked and mashed potatoes with a touch of salt, pepper, lime, and chili. This causa is served with a fish escabeche made with fish, onions, and tomatoes, along with sweet potato, corn, yuca, hard-boiled eggs, and olives.
The Theological Soup is usually eaten on Palm Sunday and consists of a chicken or hen soup (though there are also recipes with beef and pork), with many vegetables, cheese, and milk.
Pescado a la chorrillana
El pescado a la chorrillana es un platillo peruano delicioso y muy sencillo de preparar. Es ideal para servir en el almuerzo y cuenta con un exquisito sabor a mar.
Ayacucho: Ayacucho-Style Chorizo
Although tradition and religious influence in Peru suggest that Holy Week is celebrated with fish, Ayacucho is an exception to this tradition. In this region, while the Friday soup—a light broth made from tubers, milk, and herbs—is customary, the dish that distinguishes this city is Ayacucho chorizo.
Ayacucho chorizo is similar to Waquino sausage, made with pork meat seasoned with chili and vinegar.
Unlike traditional sausages, this one is not served in casing or sausage form but shredded as meat.
It is a hearty dish served with boiled or fried potatoes and a salad of beet, lettuce, and carrot.
Arequipa: Friday and Sunday Chupe
Arequipa's cuisine is a proud representative of Peru's culinary image worldwide. Much of the influence on Arequipeño food is closely linked to religion and its traditions, which have led to the creation of many dishes and desserts throughout various religious orders, so much so that there is a soup or chupe for each day of the week.
On Mondays, they prepare Chanque; Tuesdays, Chairo; Wednesdays, Chochoca broth; Thursdays, red chupe or chuno; Fridays, Friday Chupe; Saturdays, Puchero or Timpusca; and Sundays, White Broth, or Lamb Pebre, especially on Easter Sunday during Holy Week.
The Friday chupe is a dish that brings together fish and seafood, abundant vegetables, as well as eggs and fish cecina. The white broth is usually more measured, although for festivals, beef and hen are added. This article discusses this broth extensively, as it forms the basis for other chupes.
Amazon: Patarashca
Peruvian Amazonia is a vast territory, but its culinary practices are quite similar. From northeastern Loreto, through the central jungle, and down to southern Madre de Dios, you can find dishes or celebrations that resemble each other quite closely.
For example, the iconic Juane is a well-known dish, but during Holy Week, it is prepared with fish instead of chicken. Fish ceviche from freshwater is also common, served with chonta salad. However, Patarashca might be the main dish during our Amazonian Holy Weeks. Patarashca is a fish stew cooked stuffed and seasoned inside hijao leaves, served with yuca and ripe plantains.
Lawa de maíz
La lawa de maíz es una sopa tradicional andina, elaborada con choclos maduros, granos, verduras y hierbas aromáticas. Esta deliciosa sopa cusqueña tiene una consistencia espesa y es ideal para disfrutar en los días de frío.
The 12 Cusqueñan Dishes
Cusco, a city in the Peruvian Andes, also exhibits strong religious customs in its cuisine, as it hosts thousands of pilgrims for Holy Week celebrations, with Holy Monday being particularly significant, as the Lord of Temblores is carried in procession. In Cusco, as in Arequipa and other Andean cities, the tradition during Holy Week focuses on broths, soups, and chupes.
A notable tradition in this city is the opulent Cusqueñan feast of 12 dishes. The "12 dishes" feast features a menu on Good Friday, received in the early afternoon while fasting, consisting of six savory and six sweet dishes, commemorating Christ’s Last Supper.
This 12-dish menu varies from home to home and has evolved over time, but some of the most representative include:
Salty dishes: choclo or lawa soup, olluco or lisas soup, machas soup and shrimp chupe, seafood rice, and fried fish.
Sweet dishes: Cusqueñan empanadas, Suspiros, and purple mazamorra.
