On this occasion, to talk about this typical dish of Peruvian cuisine, we won’t need to refer back to the Incas or pre-Columbian civilizations.
The Young History
We also won't discuss, on this occasion, the heritage brought by our Spanish conquistadors. None of that; the story of Peruvian rotisserie chicken is a young story, born in the mid-20th century, more precisely in 1950. It’s a story we can hear from our parents.
It is said that a Swiss-born farmer, Roger Shuler, was surprised to see how his farm’s cook prepared the chickens.
After peeling and thoroughly cleaning the chickens, all small, she would pierce them on an iron rod and then place them over the embers, turning them until they were well cooked, golden, and ready.
Shuler was not only pleased with the flavor the cook gave these chickens roasted over the coals, but it was the preparation technique that most captured his imagination. This is how he started thinking about a new business, partnering with Franz Ulrich and the cook who had developed this particular way of roasting chickens.
The Blue Farm Story
Shuler, Ulrich, and the cook—whose name, unfortunately, has not been as prominent as it should have been—set up a new type of restaurant in Lima called La Granja Azul, which specialized exclusively in Peruvian rotisserie chicken. A notable fact from the 1950s was the advertising used to promote the restaurant: “Eat as much rotisserie chicken as you want for only 5 soles”.
The Blue Farm also held contests to see who could eat the most Peruvian rotisserie chicken. The winner ate for free and was immortalized with a photo in the main hall of the restaurant.
La Granja Azul gained great fame among the restaurants of the era and across all social classes. This chicken place, a pioneer of Peruvian rotisserie chicken, was the preferred spot for university students celebrating their graduation.
The Limean aristocracy also had the habit of enjoying this dish, which gradually was becoming a traditional part of Peruvian cuisine.
Business Diversification
While Shuler dedicated himself entirely to promoting La Granja Azul, and Peruvian rotisserie chicken became increasingly famous throughout Peru, his partner Franz Ulrich decided to focus on manufacturing ovens for preparing rotisserie chicken.
The first oven Ulrich built was called Rotombo, capable of roasting 8 chickens at the same time, each weighing a kilogram. The chickens rotated on their axis, ensuring they received even heat from the embers.
This oven business led to a boom in chicken spots focused on this popular Peruvian dish, which was beginning to gain fame across the country.
The Secret of Peruvian Chicken
Besides its unique cooking method, Peruvian rotisserie chicken became popular also because of how it is seasoned. The chickens are flavored with garlic, rosemary, lemon, and each region of Peru added its own spices.
Traditionally, it’s served with French fries and salads. Another way to enjoy Peruvian rotisserie chicken is accompanied by various stews with different sauces, allowing each diner to season it to their liking.
Since Paul Shuler first saw his cook preparing this dish in such a distinctive way, much has been traveled along the culinary path of Peru’s cuisine with this dish.
Today, it’s common to find at every corner of the country a rotisserie dedicated solely to making Peruvian rotisserie chicken.
According to a 2007 study, approximately 380 million rotisserie chickens are consumed annually in Peru, indicating the magnitude and popularity this dish has acquired in Peruvian cuisine.
The fame of Peruvian rotisserie chicken has spread across the Americas. The United States has over 32 states with restaurants dedicated to this dish. Yet, this phenomenon has also captured the palates of Ecuador, Venezuela, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, and even Japan.
The Peruvian people are proud that today we can talk about traditional Peruvian rotisserie chicken anywhere in the world. That is why we wanted to review its history while enjoying its very special flavor.
