For over 5,000 years, the Incas, Mayas, and Aztecs have dedicated themselves to cultivating this native American plant.
An imperial grain
In Peru, for the Incas, this cereal was the foundation of their entire economy and was present in every possible form in their diet.
The importance of Peruvian corn was such that, in the ancient Inca calendar, there was a celebration called Capacocha, in which the Incas expressed their gratitude to Mama Huaco, whom they considered the provider of Peruvian corn.
The celebration involved sending children chosen for their physical beauty to the sacred land of the Incas from the four regions of Tahuantinsuyo. Offerings to the gods and animal sacrifices were made, and symbolic marriages between children were performed to please Mama Huaco.
The Incas had managed to develop various varieties of Peruvian corn, including different colors. There is white, yellow, purple, black, and striped corn. All of these were present in many dishes of Incan cuisine.
Corn was considered an offering object. Researchers have found remnants of corn in funerary urns, suggesting it was an offering the deceased took with them on their journey to the gods.
With the arrival of the Spaniards in America, corn became known around the world. The colonizers were amazed by this plant they had not known before, which was so versatile for food. Quickly, corn was incorporated into the traditional diet of the Spaniards.
The addition of new ingredients brought by the Spaniards led to the creation of new dishes that combined traditional ways of consuming Peruvian corn with these ingredients.
From this mixture of ingredients and Peruvian corn, very typical Peruvian dishes emerged. For example, in northern Peru, you can enjoy pepián, a stew made with ground corn kernels, sautéed with onion, garlic, and chili peppers. In Arequipa, there's also a dish called soltero, prepared with beans, corn, onion, and fresh cheese, which has been enjoyed since colonial times.
In banquets offered by landowners and colonizers to their compatriots, it was common to enjoy a good plate of mazamorra morada. This dish features purple corn and includes dried fruits like peaches, prunes, and spices such as cinnamon, which the Spaniards introduced into our culture.
Peruvian chicha, a corn-based drink
Peruvian corn isn’t only found in a wide variety of dishes. The most traditional Peruvian beverage is also made from corn: chicha de jora. It is a fermented drink derived from maize. This beverage has had a long and winding history.
Ancient inhabitants of the Peruvian Andes used it during their ceremonies. Its consumption was challenged by the church that arrived with the conquistadors, as it opposed the liturgical rites they wanted to impose.
Throughout the years, it was also banned by various political administrations for being considered disruptive. Nonetheless, chicha has survived intact to this day.
Today, Peruvian chicha has been rediscovered as a national beverage, and its production processes have been adapted to meet health standards required to ensure the population's well-being.
Fermentation processes, which were once carried out with human saliva, have been replaced by natural yeasts and pasteurization techniques.
Currently, over 55 varieties of Peruvian corn are cultivated in Peru. All these varieties are part of the Peruvian gastronomic universe, used in desserts, starters, main courses, and, as mentioned before, beverages.
Corn does not need to be re-evaluated; it is already part of the food heritage in every country around the world.
Therefore, when we speak of it, we are supporting the recognition of the enormous contribution that the cultures and civilizations that inhabited our land have made to food.
