In Quechua, the term pachamanca means "earthen oven." Its method involves cooking a series of ingredients, with the main being meat that can be pork, beef, guinea pig, or chicken, along with typical vegetables such as sweet potato, yucca, and potatoes.
When the earth cooks
But like all traditional Peruvian cuisine, each region adds its own touch in terms of preparation and ingredients.
This particular cooking method, used for over 5,000 years by pre-Columbian civilizations, is a tribute to the land, as we have noted, since it is the land that takes care of cooking the food.
The oldest method involves digging a small hole in the ground, then lining its interior with stones capable of retaining a lot of heat.
Once this "oven" is prepared, logs are placed to make a fire that heats the stones very well. Afterward, the hole is cleaned thoroughly and all ingredients—marinated beforehand with spices—are placed inside, covered with banana leaves.
Then, the hole is covered with earth or additional stones and left for a period until the food is cooked.
Its history
The Pachamanca has its antecedent in the Peruvian huatia. A celebration that consisted of cooking potatoes in holes made in the ground, which were then heated.
Potatoes, with Andean cheese or other seasonings, were placed there until cooked.
The Peruvian huatia was performed during the potato harvest and was a combination of an act of gratitude and a way for harvesters to feed themselves during long days. Unlike the Peruvian huatia, the Incas traditionally distinguished one practice from another.
To make a Pachamanca, they would build a kind of pyramid with stones, which were then heated from the inside by placing fires within them.
For many years during the Spanish conquest, Pachamanca was done in secret because the Spanish fought against rituals that opposed Catholic religion or were considered pagan.
Only in the 19th century did these traditions begin to be recovered again.
The art of the Pachamanca
In preparing Pachamanca, elements of the ancient ritual are combined with practical actions to ensure the dish turns out beautifully, respecting traditional methods.
Within the ritual traditions of Pachamanca, there is a belief that neither women nor the placement of ingredients within the hole can be done by them, as "the earth is female and very jealous."
The ingredients inside the "hole" must be carefully arranged. At the bottom, hot stones are placed, then a bed of banana leaves, herbs, and spices. Next, the vegetables—sweet potato, potato, yuca, etc.—are arranged, each variety on a separate layer separated by hot stones and aromatic herbs.
Following the vegetables, the meats are placed, each wrapped in banana leaves. Finally, grains, beans, and humita are added.
To cover the Pachamanca, certain traditions must be respected. First, a woven mat of herbs is placed as a bed. On top, damp jute sacks are added, and finally, the earth removed from the hole covers everything, forming a small mound where the Pachamanca's godmother places a cross of flowers.
The cooking process can take between three and four hours. Once that time has passed, if it is a true ritual, the lead person (caporal) will open the hole and give the final approval. While uncovering the Pachamanca, the diners sing and dance.
The meats are placed on clay trays, and to serve them, everyone must be seated waiting.
Today
Many towns in Peru continue this ancestral tradition. Today, it is possible to find in the main restaurants of Lima the well-known pot Pachamanca.
This dish involves marinating the meats the day before and then placing the ingredients in a pot, respecting the order of the traditional Pachamanca, including using beds of herbs and banana leaves to separate the ingredients.
Finally, the pot is brought to the fire, and after about an hour of cooking, they are ready to serve.
For those who have the opportunity to visit Peru and participate in a Pachamanca, it can be an unforgettable experience, blending traditional Peruvian cuisine with ancient rituals. Besides, I assure you, Pachamanca is exquisite.
