In Quechua, the term pachamanca means "hill of earth." Its process involves cooking a series of ingredients, the main one being meat, which can be pork, beef, guinea pig, or chicken, along with typical vegetables such as sweet potato, maize, and potatoes.
When the earth cooks
As with all traditional Peruvian cuisine, each region adds its own touch in both preparation style and ingredients.
This particular way of cooking, which has been used for more than 5,000 years by pre-Columbian civilizations, is a tribute to the land, as we pointed out, because it is the land itself that takes care of cooking the foods.
The oldest method involves digging a small hole in the ground, then lining its interior with stones capable of concentrating a lot of heat.
Once this "oven" is prepared, firewood is placed to heat the stones very well. Afterward, the hole is cleaned and all ingredients are placed inside — the meat has been previously marinated with spices — and covered with banana leaves.
Next, the hole is covered with earth or additional stones and left to cook until the foods are done.
The history
The pachamanca has its roots in the Peruvian huatia. A celebration that involved cooking potatoes in holes made in the ground, which were then heated.
Potatoes with Andean cheese or other seasonings were placed there until cooked.
The Peruvian huatia was performed during the potato harvest and was both a gratitude ritual and a way for harvesters to nourish themselves during long workdays. Unlike the Incan practice, which historically distinguished these rituals, both were closely related.
To make a pachamanca, a pyramid of stones would be built and then heated from the inside by placing fire-lit logs.
During many years of Spanish conquest, the pachamanca was performed in secret, as the Spanish fought against rituals opposed to Catholicism or considered pagan.
It was only in the 19th century that these traditions began to be revived.
The art of the pachamanca
In preparing the pachamanca, elements of ancient rituals are combined with practical actions to ensure the dish turns out perfect in traditional Peruvian cuisine.
Within the ritual traditions of pachamanca, there is a belief that neither the hole nor the placement of the food inside it can be done by a woman, as "the land is female and very jealous."
The foods inside the "hill" must be arranged carefully. At the bottom of the hole, well-heated stones are placed, then a bed of banana leaves, herbs, and spices. Next, the vegetables such as sweet potato, potato, cassava, etc., are placed, each one on a separate layer separated by hot stones and aromatic herbs.
After the vegetables, the meats are added, each piece wrapped in banana leaves. Finally, grains, broad beans, and corn are added.
To cover the pachamanca, certain traditions must be respected. First, a mesh of herbs is placed, forming a bed. On top, burlap sacks soaked in water are laid, and finally, the entire preparation is covered with the earth that was dug out of the hole. This should fully cover everything and form a small mound, where the godmother of the pachamanca will place a cross made of flowers.
The cooking process can last between three and four hours. After that, if it is a genuine ritual, the leader will be responsible for opening the hole and giving the final approval. While the leader unearths the pachamanca, the diners sing and dance.
The meats are placed on clay trays and, once ready, everyone waits seated at the table to enjoy them.
Today
Many Peruvian communities continue this ancient tradition. Today, it is also possible to find in the leading restaurants of Lima the well-known "pachamanca in a pot."
This dish involves marinating the meats a day before and then placing the ingredients in a pot, respecting the traditional arrangement, even using herb and banana leaf beds to separate the ingredients.
Finally, the pot is placed over the fire, and after about an hour of cooking, it is ready to serve.
For those visiting Peru and participating in a pachamanca, it can be an unforgettable experience, where traditional Peruvian cuisine blends with ancient rituals. And I can tell you, the pachamanca is truly delicious.
