Whenever we enjoy a dish of Peruvian cuisine, we know that it involves diverse gastronomic influences. The traditional Andean cuisine, from the indigenous peoples—civilizations with many centuries of existence before the arrival of the Spanish—was first fused with Spanish cuisine, brought by the conquistadors. Later, influences from Japanese and Chinese cuisine emerged, gradually shaping Peruvian cuisine and gaining international fame.
And suddenly, the New Andean Style appeared
However, about 30 years ago, a new gastronomic proposal emerged strongly, driven by renowned chefs from Peru. This movement is called New Andean Cuisine, and its goal is to recover the most ancestral traditions of pre-Hispanic civilizations. From the products used to some cooking methods, this style breathes new life into Peruvian culinary tradition.
It is attributed to Chef Bernardo Roca Mirón Rey Quesada in 1986 the paternity of New Andean cuisine. Rey Quesada was a judge at a gastronomic event held at Lake Huacachina, where, during one of the sessions, he was challenged by his colleagues to create a novel dish.
The challenge was accepted, and Rey Quesada chose to prepare a dish using all the typical ingredients of Peru he could find in the market, though most were unknown to the other chefs. With these, he prepared a stew that was highly appreciated by his peers. This dish was dubbed "The Great Huacachina Pot" and became the inaugural dish of New Andean cuisine.
What are its characteristics?
The first thing to highlight about New Andean cuisine is the interest of Peruvian chefs in rescuing all those Peruvian products and ingredients used by pre-Hispanic civilizations. They prefer not to focus solely on Inca products, considering that all Andean civilizations prior to the Incas are part of this culinary movement.
Another very important aspect of New Andean cuisine is the combination of these enduring Peruvian ingredients with the most modern techniques for preparing dishes. The aim is that the new creations emerge from this creative fusion of traditional Peruvian ingredients and modern techniques, including the renowned molecular cuisine.
Regarding the Peruvian ingredients, great attention must be paid, as the "New Andean chefs" have conducted extensive research to rescue ingredients that, over time and due to other gastronomic influences, were gradually left aside.
This blending of ancestral products and modern cooking techniques is complemented by a visual festival in the presentation of dishes, where chefs employ shapes inspired by international cuisine.
Lima, the Capital
Lima is not only the capital of Peru but also serves as the laboratory where New Andean cuisine showcases all its qualities. Tradition, research, innovation, and sophistication seem to be the guiding principles of the chefs, who are dedicated to making this new style of Peruvian cuisine a global gastronomic reference.
"Las Brujas de Cachiche" is considered the first restaurant of New Andean cuisine in Peru. Its main characteristic is that its menu features dishes from ancient Peruvian cuisine, but prepared with the techniques of New Andean cuisine.
To illustrate what New Andean cuisine entails, Rey Quesada replaced rice with quinoa in a risotto. This dish, delicious and nutritious, was renamed "Quinotto." Here, we see the attributes that the chefs aim for in this new culinary style.
Gastón Acurio, another prominent figure in New Andean cuisine, has proposed dishes like Lomo saltado with Arracacha cream and Pink Quinoa. This dish combines a European-style presentation with Peruvian ingredients, resulting in a distinguished flavor.
Today, in Lima and major tourist centers in Peru, a diverse gastronomic offer based on New Andean cuisine can be found. Leading hotels offer dishes from this culinary style in their restaurants and function as dissemination centers, attracting chefs from around the world eager to learn and incorporate new ingredients.
Today, New Andean cuisine is a successful reality, beginning to bear fruit. It revalues Peru's most traditional and native ingredients and elevates Peruvian gastronomy to international recognition.
